African American,
Natural and Chemically Relaxed Hair

Do you work on a primarily African-American clientele?


If you don't, would you like to sharpen your skills in this particular expertise so that you can open up another whole new market segment of business in your salon?

As publisher and creator of the Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Expert Educational Series, it brings me great pleasure to introduce you to this new, GROUND BREAKING book.

This book is designed to not only teach you how to color natural and chemically relaxed African American hair, but also as a reference book which you will keep by your side at the salon on a daily basis.

This is the first book in the HaircolorTrade Secrets Series in which I have asked fellow haircolor expert, Mr. Paul Chambers, to co-author with me. My purpose for doing so is that I feel that no one can be an expert at everything (Not even me :-/).

In my opinion, in order to become an expert at something, one must do it every day, all day long, for a long period of time. This is the kind of expertise that Paul brings to the party.

I spent several years looking for just the right person to co-write this book with me and my perseverance paid off. Paul has a wealth of knowledge in this area, and he also shares a passion for teaching it, as I do. I simply could not have asked for a better partner in the creation of this incredible book.

Why I Wanted To Write This Book

After writing my other books in the Haircolor Trade Secrets Series, there was a glaring omission, the African-American client! Not that I purposely neglected this topic, but as I said already, I did not feel that I was an expert on this topic. 

However, I truly felt there was a strong need for better haircolor education on this topic due to the challenging nature of working with this very fragile and delicate hair type.

Also, due to the fact that many times when working with African American clients, you will be working on top of “chemically relaxed” hair, which just adds to the complexities of the process.    

It is my hope that this book will give you the tools you need to understand this complex specialty and to build your confidence in performing these services.

Below is the Table of Contents, showing all of the topics about which you will learn about in this 145-page book.

What You Will Learn in this Book

•    Introduction--------------------------------------------------------------------5
•    An Overview of the Coloring Process -----------------------------------6
•    Rules of Texture and Porosity --------------------------------------------13
•    Understanding the pH Scale ----------------------------------------------17
•    The Theory of Haircolor Does Not Change----------------------------21
•    10 Most Important Laws of Haircolor-----------------------------------22
•    Gray Coverage Rules Do Not Change-----------------------------------40
•    The 5 Variables of Coloring African-American Hair-----------------48
•    Variable #1--THE HAIR’S NATURAL COLOR------------------------50
•    Variable #2--2 KINDS OF TEXTURE ------------------------------------54
•    Variable #3--3 TYPES OF NATURAL TEXTURE----------------------58
•    Variable #4--5 STAGES OF POROSITY----------------------------------65
•    Variable #5--3 TYPES of CHEMICAL RELAXERS--------------------75
•    The Differences Between Ammonium Thiogylcolate and Hydroxide
       Relaxers -------------------------------------------------------------------------78
•    Three Strengths of Hydroxide Relaxers Mild, Regular & Super --86
•    pH of Chemical Relaxers----------------------------------------------------87
•    Pre-treating Chemically Relaxed Hair for Color-----------------------88
•    Understanding the Formulation Charts    -------------------------------92
•    Haircolor Selector Grids and Hair Classification Charts-------------95
•    Group 1 – Natural Curl Texture Charts----------------------------------101
•    Group 2 – Chemically Relaxed Texture Charts-------------------------117
•    After Care ---- Hair Care Products ----------------------------------------133
•    After Care Retailing  ---------------------------------------------------------139
•    At Home After-Care Maintenance Tips ---------------------------------142

The Book is Broken Down into 3 Different Sections

The first section is a review of the 10 most important Laws in Haircolor and the Rules of Gray Coverage. These Laws and Rules to not change with ethnic origin or hair texture.

We have included them here so that no matter what your present background, knowledge or experience with haircolor has been up to this point; we want to make sure that we are on the same page before we move forward in your education.

In the second section of the book is where you will discover the differences, which you need to learn when working with African-American hair as oppose to other hair types such as Caucasian or Asian hair.

We call this section:

Understanding the 5 Variables of Coloring African-American Hair

They are as follow:

1.    The Hair’s Natural Color

2.    2 Kinds of Texture

3.    3 Types of Natural Texture

4.    5 Stages of Porosity

5.    3 Types of Relaxers

It is vital that you have a thorough understanding of these 5 Variables before moving on to actual formulation concepts.

In this section we will guide you Step-By-Step through the understanding of Texture, Porosity and Chemical Relaxers, all of which will play an enormous roll in creating beautiful haircolor on the African-American client.

And, finally, in the third section of the book we are going to give you a Group of Grids and Charts that will take all of the guesswork out of Formulating Haircolor for the African-American Client.

In this Part of the book we are going to give you a Foolproof System to formulate haircolor for every conceivable haircolor process you will ever encounter with the African-American client.

It’s a Matter of fact, you really won’t even have to learn how to formulate haircolor because in this section of the book,


Paul in Action
@ The Orlando Premiere Show

There is a saying:

Give a man a fish and you will feed him for a day,
Teach a man to fish and you will feed him for life.

In this Book, we will teach you how to fish

This means, we will teach you everything you need to know in order to make a logical, factual choice in deciding upon a haircolor formula for your clients.



This means that contained in the 30 charts in this book, we will literally give you over 200 haircolor formulations that you can just copy and use or modify as you wish.

This is a totally New and Revolutionary Concept in a Haircolor Educational Book

There has never been a haircolor education book that focuses 100% on the needs of the African-American Client, Period, let alone one that utilizes the SYSTEM APPROACH that we will give you in this book.

Below I am going to give you a SNEAK PEEK
at exactly how The SYSTEM Works


Introducing the:

Haircolor Selector Grids
Hair Classification Charts

In this section of the book, we will give you two groups of charts:

Group 1 – Natural Curl Texture Charts
Group 2 – Chemically Relaxed Texture Charts

At the beginning of each group of charts, you will find the Grids below.

Haircolor Selector Grids

Within each grid you will see 15 boxes that will represent the 15 charts in that group.

Such as “NT-1 or CR-8” 


The “Number” after these letters indicates which HAIR CLASSIFICATION CHART you need to go to, to find the formulas


Once you have found the appropriate Hair Classification Chart, all you have to do is look at the first column and select your DESIRED COLOR, then read the directions to the right of that color.

The second column labeled “Pre-Lightening Necessary” will indicate if you will need to pre-lighten or not in order to achieve the desired color. If pre-lightening is needed, you will find our suggested product. If Pre-Lightening is not necessary, it will say N/R for Not Recommended or Not Necessary.

The third column will give you the Product Category and Formulation Suggestion to achieve that desired color.

And in the last column, you will find side NOTES that will help in the process of the formulation.

Following are Step-By-Step diagrams showing how to use these grids and charts 

Or If the hair has been Chemically Relaxed
use the Chart Below

You see what I mean when I say that this book is Revolutionary!

Never before has there been such an easy, straightforward way to learn how to color African-American hair  (Or any other hair type for that matter).

So here’s the THING!

This book is over 140 pages long, has over 200 tried and true Haircolor Formulations, 30 Hair Classification Charts, the HAIRCOLOR SELECTOR GRID SYSTEM  and is in Full Color and it's Guaranteed to Make All Haircolor Formulations Brain Dead Simple. 

So, if you think that this book will make your salon life easier, order now .

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David Velasco
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