Dear Fellow Hairdresser:
Are you a Haircolor Specialist? Would you like to become one?
Would you like to learn how to make more money from your haircolor services?
Does haircolor seem confusing to you and the thought of having to do a color correction give you butterflies in the pit of your stomach? Well you’re not alone. I can really relate, because that’s just how I used to feel.
Hi, my name is David Velasco, and I want to share a story with you.
Early in my hairdressing career, when I was primarily a haircutter, I used to actually talk my clients out of getting haircolor because I was so afraid that I would mess up their hair so bad that my clients would hate me and then I would have to send them to a color specialist to get it fixed.
"The Thought of the Whole Haircolor Thing
Just Made My Stomach Turn"
I can remember once, when I first started hairdressing, I was working in a small salon back in my hometown of Tampa, Florida. One day a lady came into the salon after having tinted her own hair at home “Jet Black” and the salon owner told me to put on some color remover and fix the “Jet Black” color.
So, not having a clue as to how to go about this, I mixed up the color remover and applied it, roots to ends, on the client’s hair, and after a few short moments, her root area was bright yellow-orange and the rest of the hair was still Jet Black!
When the client saw it, she freaked out and the salon owner (who was an aesthetician and not a hairdresser) looked at me as if I had committed murder.
After confessing to both of them that I had no idea what I was doing, I ended up reapplying Jet Black tint to the yellow-orange root area and sending her to another salon to get it fixed.
I was so humiliated and embarrassed by this experience that I didn’t touch a tube or bottle of haircolor for the next three years. ☹
The Weekend That Changed My Life
Then, one weekend after having moved to New York City, I was teaching a haircutting class sponsored by Clairol, and I happen to meet a haircolor specialist named Dee Levin.
Dee was teaching a haircolor class in the room next to mine and she offered to color the hair of some of the models I was using in my haircutting class.
What I Saw Dee Do That Day Was
Nothing Short of Magic
Brunettes became blondes, blondes became redheads, and older women looked younger in no time flat.
I was suddenly reminded of a book that I had been reading at the time called Mega Trends
by John Nesbit. In the book, he spoke about 10 trends that would shape the future of the world we live in and how to position yourself to take advantage of these trends.
One of them was to be involved in a business that would help the Baby Boomers stay healthy and look younger. (Not exactly John’s words, but you get the idea.)
After seeing Dee create haircolor magic again and again, and remembering what I had read in Mega Trends,
I decided that weekend I was going to learn how to do haircolor like an expert.
I Was Fed Up!
I was fed up with being embarrassed and humiliated by my lack of haircolor knowledge and sick and tired of sending all of my haircutting clients to other hairdressers (or other salons) to get their color done.
I was bound and determined to gain the knowledge and confidence in my haircoloring abilities to the level I had in my haircutting skills.
So, Dee and I made an agreement that I would drive down from NYC to her salon in Philadelphia every weekend and she would teach me color. In exchange, I would teach her staff new haircutting techniques. This was the beginning,
and from here, I began to search out other haircolor experts that would help me along my journey.
People like Beth Minardi who, at that time, worked for Clairol and headed up a program called “The Congress of Colorists” (among other things). She was then, and still is today, one of the best haircolor instructors I have ever known.
During my early days, she gave her knowledge so freely, and I became a sponge – learning as much as I could from both of these haircolor masters, as well as many others along the way.
All this time I kept looking for books or programs that would teach me the techniques I needed to know. But all that was available was product literature from the haircolor manufacturing companies that would give a little bit of education, but were primarily geared towards selling their products.
Fast-Forward 30 Years and Here I am,
Writing the Very Course that I
Wish I Had Back Then.
I wrote this course because it symbolizes the book I wish I had thirty years ago when I first started doing haircolor in the mid 70’s.
Oh sure, hair color manufacturers still freely give basic haircolor education, however, many of the instructors at these types of classes never really stood behind the chair and had to produce one great haircolor after another on a very demanding clientele eight to ten hours a day, five days a week.
It is here in the trenches that true expert haircolorists are made by learning to fix mistakes in record time and fly solo as the pressure builds and the clock ticks on, day after day, year after year.
I remember back in the early days whenever I got stuck, I would have to pick up the phone and call one of my mentors such as Dee or Beth just to find out how they would handle a certain haircolor situation. Eventually, these desperate phone calls became fewer and fewer as my confidence and skill level increased.
However, it wasn’t until I decided to specialize in haircolor and was able to do it every day, all day long, that I was able to call myself a true haircolor expert and teach my ideas, techniques and strategies to others.
No One Has Addressed Insider-Advanced Strategies.
You see, even today with tons of books, videos and technique guides teaching every conceivable way to put in a foil, Avant Garde hair color concepts and runway looks, no one has addressed insider advanced strategies to help the haircolorist with the real work that goes on behind the chair every day.
• Gray Coverage Issues
• Drab Redheads
• Orange Brunettes
• Brassy Single Process Blonde's
• Uneven Double Process Blonde's
-- just to name a few!
And what about the products we use, how do they really work? What can you really do and not do with them? And what do you do if something goes wrong? Wouldn’t it be great if you knew how to fix every haircolor problem that you will ever face?
Have you ever wished that you could be a fly on the wall in the color department at a top New York salon just to see what they really do? Why have they developed the reputations that many of them have and be able to replicate that success in your own salon?
Have you ever wished that you could go behind the scenes of a world leading haircolor-manufacturing company and meet the chemist who actually makes the products that we work with every day? What would you ask them? What secrets would you want to uncover that would help you in your everyday work?
Well, over the years, I have had the pleasure of doing just these things. My work has taken me around the world as a haircolor artist and educator. I have also had the extraordinary experience of having held the positions as the National Artistic Director for the Wella Corporation for 10 years and the former Manager and Educator in the Haircolor Department at the world famous Bumble and Bumble Salon in New York City. Presently, I own and operate my own haircolor specialty salon, David Velasco Salon, LTD (www.dvsalon.com).
It is from this viewpoint that I have written this course, not as a manufacturer’s rep, for I no longer represent a manufacturing company, not as a chemist, for I am not and never will be one and not as a “Guest Artist” at your local hair show demonstrating some outlandish haircolor technique that you will never use in your salon.No! No! No!
I share the viewpoint of a Haircolor Specialist that faces the same issues you do every day and learned how to over come them.So here it is…
The haircolor home study course that I wish I had 30 years ago. Of course, all the information is up-to-date and relevant for our present time, but many of the strategies and techniques that you will learn in this course have withstood the test of time with haircolor specialists throughout the years.
"Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Expert"
"The World's First Home Study Course in the Art of Haircolor"
Now, you may wonder what Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Expert
has to offer that the other books on how to do professional haircolor don’t.
First of all, if you are a serious student of haircolor and have searched around for good non-manufacturer-related haircolor education in a written step-by-step program, you will be hard-pressed to find anything at all.
And most of what you will find was written 15 or 20 years ago and all say the same stuff…they talk about the color wheel, the hair structure, shades of lift, blah, blah, blah. All the stuff you should have learned in beauty school.
While all this stuff is definitely valid information that you have to learn in order to do haircolor, none of it prepares you to become a Haircolor Specialist or deals with everyday behind the chair situations that you will encounter, let alone compete in the highly competitive arena that make up the elite few that are able to call themselves “Haircolor Experts”.
Why This Course is Titled:
"Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Expert"
Webster’s Dictionary defines TRADE SECRET as:
Main Entry: trade secret
Something (as a formula) which has economic value to a business because it is not generally known or easily discoverable by observation.
The Wikipedia online Encyclopedia defines TRADE SECRET as:
A trade secret is a formula, practice, process, design, or compilation of information used by a business to obtain an advantage over competitors.
In this course, you will learn many formulation concepts that are not generally known by the masses of hairdressers. Sure, some of them will seem familiar to you and you may have heard them somewhere along the line in your training. However, hearing something and learning how to use what you have heard are two very different things.
The main thing that is going to set you apart from your competition, giving you the status and recognition as a Haircolor Expert in your community is knowledge, not just any kind of knowledge, but “Specialized Knowledge”.
You can only get this kind of knowledge two ways, by learning from trial and error (this will take years) or by learning from someone that has been there before you.
“Specialized Knowledge” will not be found in the textbooks in our industry or by going to weekend hair shows that are designed to entertain hairdressers and sell products.
When I first started to learn haircolor, well known hair colorists at that time used to keep their formulations under lock and key. They literally had metal strong boxes that they kept their client color cards in so that no one could steal their formulas.
Thank God, today things are different. Most haircolorist are willing to share their ideas and color concepts with others. But the question now becomes - whose way is right; whose way is best and who’s willing to guide you step-by-step through every haircolor procedure until you have the confidence to go it alone?
In this course, you will find the Trade Secrets that will give you the confidence to go it alone, and, as a side benefit, you will also shave many years off of your learning curve. Instead of taking years and learning by trial and error, you will be able to refer back to this information over and over again throughout your career.
My friend, this is the kind of confidence that you can take to the bank. Just imagine never having butterflies in the pit of your stomach again… Never having to do what I call “Holy Haircolor” - where you put the color on a client and then run into the dispensary and pray to the color gods that it will work.
What About Creativity?
Before we go any further, I just want to clear up what some of you may be thinking about now, and that is the question of creativity.
I know that some of you may be thinking to yourself, “If he gives me all this information on his way of formulating haircolor and correcting any haircolor problems I will ever need, I will be like a robot doing color and my work will become formulaic, boring and not very creative.”
Please, let me put your mind at ease, nothing could be further from the truth…
You see, first of all, I feel the word “creativity” is used way too loosely in our industry. Don’t get me wrong; there are some truly creative haircolorists in our industry who really know what they are doing. But for the most part, creativity is used to describe any haircolor work that is weird or different.
This is ridiculous! We have all attended hair shows where some guest artist tries to pass off some absurd looking coloring technique as the next big trend. And guess what? When they go back to their salons, they do the same things on their clients as you do.
True Creativity in Your Work Can Only Come
After You Have Complete
Mastery Over the Fundamentals of Haircolor.
There is a quote that states, “Technique Sets You Free”. What this means is that, once you understand the techniques, fundamentals and strategies of a given task, you will then, and only then, be able to be free to truly become creative. Until then, you are only playing a hit or miss game.
Study any of the true creative geniuses throughout history. Even contemporary artists like Elton John, Frank Lloyd Wright, Andy Warhol and Joanne Rowling have all had extensive training in their given fields.
Elton John was a classically trained musician long before he became a rock star. Frank Lloyd Wright was granted an honorary doctorate of fine arts from the University of Wisconsin-Madison College of Engineering. Andy Warhol had a successful career as a commercial illustrator before he went on to become one of the most creative artists that ever lived.
Joanne Rowling, author of the Harry Potter fantasy series, studied French and the classics at the University of Exeter in England and Paris, getting her inspiration to write Harry Potter during a four-hour delayed-train trip between Manchester and London. She has gone on to become one of the most successful authors in history.
One of my favorite movies of all time is the original Karate Kid, not because I like martial arts, but because of the incredible way the movie demonstrated that one can only achieve greatness when the fundamentals become second nature.
In the movie, Mr. Miyagi (played by Pat Morita) is the elder Japanese karate master who teaches Daniel (played by Ralph Macchio), a young anxious American kid, that only after the fundamentals of the moves are mastered (in this case, by waxing Mr. Miyagi’s car), can the young boy expect to do well in the heat of competition.
My point is that real creativity can only happen as a by-product of “Specialized Knowledge”, the kind of knowledge that you will gain as you study the information in this course.
Isn’t it time you stop all of the guesswork and get really grounded in the kind of specialized knowledge that has the ability to dramatically change the quality of your work, your income and ultimately change your life.
This is the Kind of Knowledge That I am
Speaking of in This Course.
I know all this might sound too good to be true and you may be saying to yourself, “Well, who is David Velasco anyway, and what gives him the credibility to be able to make these bold claims?”
Well, let me put your concerns to rest. I know that many of you may have never heard my name, primarily because I no longer care to do the “Hair Show Circuit”, and since leaving New York City several years ago, I have been very busy working in and building up my own haircolor specialty salon in Bucks County, PA. David Velasco Salon, LTD. (Check us out at www.DVSalon.com)
“Well, Who is David Velasco Anyway?
With that said, let me share with you a little about myself and why I am so confident that I will be able to assist you in becoming a Haircolor Expert.
After my preliminary training in haircolor as I described earlier in this letter, I went on to become the National Artistic Director for Wella USA for 10 years. While I held this position, I had the wonderful opportunity to not only do hair shows and teach haircolor seminars around the world, but I also was give amazing opportunities to work directly with the chemists and scientists that actually made the products we use everyday.
During this time, I once again acted like a sponge and soaked up as much information and knowledge about haircolor as possible. I asked these people as many questions as I could think of and then tried to translate that information into “hairdresser-ese” so that I could understand it better and be able to teach some of the information in my classes.
During my stint with the Wella Corporation, I met Michael Gordon, former owner and founder of Bumble & Bumble, NYC.
Bumble had just taken on Wella haircolor, and all of their colorists were having a hard time trying to adjust to the new haircolor line.
After giving a couple of product knowledge classes to Bumble's colorists, it became apparent to me that I could be of help to Bumble as an in-house educator for them, and also to help Bumble to grow its already well-established color department.
During this time, I not only taught what I knew they needed to learn, but once again I was given a fantastic opportunity to work with and learn from some of the best haircolorists in the world.Most recently I was awarded “The ANDY Award” which is the American Board of Certified Haircolorist Educator of the Year Award, June 2013
Video below of me receiving the Andy Award
Please understand, I am not telling you all of this to brag or show off, but only so that you could get a better understanding of where I come from and how I will be able to help you achieve your goals of becoming a Haircolor Specialist.
Who Wants to Make More Money?
That’s the cry that we hear at every beauty show across the country.
And then some manufacturer holds up a bottle shampoo and tells you how their retail product is going to make you all this money.
Well, I’m all for retailing that’s for sure, but believe me when I tell you that in order to make great money behind the chair takes a lot more than selling shampoo.
Making Great Money as a Haircolorist means
you have to be Great at what you do.
But You See…it all starts with EDUCATION.
- The better you are at Haircolor, the more clients you’ll please.
- The more clients you please, the more they’ll refer their family and friends.
- The more referrals you have, the more you will get booked-up.
- The more booked-up you are, the more you can charge.
- The more you charge, the more money you'll make and the more your tips increase.
- The more in demand you are, and the larger the clientèle you have, the easier it is to get a great job at a great salon.
- The better the salon that you work at, the more money you will make.
- And this cycle goes on and on.
The kind of education that you will receive in this haircolor course.
Educating yourself to becoming a true Haircolor Expert will put you in demand, not only with clients who will be clambering to get an appointment with you, but also you will be in demand and sought out by the top salon owners in your area.
This is the real way that money is made our industry.
Attention Salon Owners
- Are your hairdressers as proficient in haircolor as they should be?
- Do you have a solid haircolor educational program in your salon?
- Do you realize that most lawsuits involving hair salons have to do with bad hair color procedures?
Your customers might not be too upset if their haircut isn’t just they way they want it, they may simply come and for an adjustment and be fine.
However if a client receives a bad hair color service, they often become enraged and totally lose confidence in the salon that preformed the service.
Let me help you realize the benefits of training your hairdresser’s to be the best haircolorist they can be.
When I first started doing hair in the early 1970s haircolor was considered a sideline service.
Another words it wasn’t the main reason clients came to salon. They came to get a great hairstyle a great haircut and a few received haircolor.
Also haircolor back in those days was usually done in the back room somewhere so people wouldn’t have to look at this potentially ugly, messy operation being performed and also they didn’t have to smell the chemicals.
However, fast forward 30 years and here we are today with haircolor being the number one income producing service in the salon industry and now is done in the forefront of the salon and in some cases in the Windows of a street side salon demonstrating their expertise.
The national average of haircolor services preformed in hair salons just five years ago was about 15% meaning out of all the services that were performed in hair salons on a national average 15% was hair color.
Today that percentage has doubled to almost 30% of the overall work being done in the salon. Some salons such as mine enjoy a haircolor to haircut ratio of 50-60% of our overall business in hair color.
Also keep in mind that haircolor represents the largest ticket price of any service in the salon and the highest dollar amount per minute of services behind the chair.Let me give you an example:
When I was a colorist at Bumble and bumble in New York my price for a single process application was about $75-$85.
The average price for a haircut at Bumble in those days was about $75-$100.
So as you can see our prices were similar, but the big difference is their haircutters took 45 minutes to one hour to preformed their service (haircut and blow dry) and I took 15-20 minutes to perform my single process service.
Which means that as a colorist I was literally bring in 3-4 times the amount of money that a haircutter was bringing in given the same time allotment.
This is why I say that haircolor gives the salon the highest dollar per minute ratio for time spent behind the chair.
But of course in order to do this you must have the competitive edge over all of your competition.
And it goes without saying that to have the competitive edge you must have the highest trained haircolorist in your area.
This training isn’t just about how to do the latest foil weave pattern or ultra creative/bazaar haircolor technique, but instead this training must start at the apprentice level with a good solid haircolor knowledge foundation.
This foundation is exactly what I am offering in my “Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Expert” course.
What This Course Is Not
First of all, let me tell you that I no longer work for any haircolor manufacturing company, so you won’t find any “product pushing” in this course.
Also, I am not and never will be a chemist who makes haircolor, so I will not try to teach you all the chemical compositions and Ph values of the products we use – none of that stuff has any relevance to the work that goes on behind the chair every day. It will only confuse you (and me) and will delay your journey to becoming a Haircolor Expert.
Next, I want to let you know that this course is not going to teach you 52 ways to put in a foil packet. It doesn’t matter how you put in a foil packet as long as it is placed close to the scalp and you don’t get bleeders (product seeping into the hair).
No, this course is designed to teach you the strategies and techniques that will help you along your journey to being a Haircolor Specialist. You will learn:
1. Everything you need to know about advanced haircolor formulations for every possible haircolor situation,
2. How to correct any haircolor problem that you will ever have,
3. Why the problem happened (whether you did it or someone else) and how to prevent this problem from ever happening again in the future.
Having this Specialized Knowledge will give you the skills and confidence that will allow you to become a recognized authority in your town and community as a highly qualified Haircolor Specialist.
The Bottom Line is: no one really cares
how you wrap your foils;
All that really matters is what the
finished color looks like.
I have spent over two years writing this program, documenting every haircolor situation you may encounter. And that, my friend, is exactly what this course is designed to do – to take you deeper into the theories, techniques and strategies that will prepare you to enter the realm of “Haircolor Specialization”.There is over 400 page of intense haircolor information in this 100% full color, 7 volume set of books.
How Do You Do It? It’s Easy! Trade Secrets of a Haircolor Expert
is broken up into easily digestible modules (books) each one dealing with a different segment of information every haircolor expert must know.
The First Three Volumes
are what I call: Fundamental Training
means that the concepts in these three books must be fully understood
before going on to the other books. They will lay out the foundation, strategies and
terminology that will be referred back to often in the other books.
Once the Fundamentals are understood, then you are free to jump around as you would like with the other books, which I call Core Essential Training.
These books will give you everything you need to know in the area of PIGMENTING hair
, as in creating Redheads and Brunettes and BLONDING hair
as in creating Single Process Blondes and Double Process Blondes.
Beyond that, on other pages of this website you will find what I call: Specialty Traning.
are books that deal with other haircolor specialty's in the in the
salon, such as Coloring African-American Hair, Haircolor Consultation
Skills and Coloring Men's Hair.
The first book that I recommend you study is called:
Haircolor 101 VOLUME 1
...and it was written for the Absolute Beginner!
Over the past few years as I have been selling my haircolor educational books, I have been contacted by many people saying that they haven't got the first clue as to where to start their haircolor education
So in this book, Haircolor 101 - The Beginning, we take it from:
GROUND ZERO!Who This Book Is For:
- The Hairdresser who has been doing hair for some time but never really focused on doing haircolor because it always was too confusing to figure it all out,
- The Hairdresser "MOM", who had to take a 12 year break from the business to raise her kids, is now ready to go back to work and is looking for a refresher course in haircolor,
- The Beauty School Student who wants to fast-track his or her career and excel the learning curve the right way without wasting 10 years trying to figure it all out,
- The Cosmetology Instructor who is looking for the right words to say to the beginning beauty school student on the first day of "Haircolor Class",
Who this book is NOT for:
- The Salon Owner or In-Salon Educator who is interested in putting together a solid in-salon haircolor training program to teach his/her young hairdressers the way the salon wants haircolor done.
- The hairdresser who is already very experienced in doing haircolor,
Here is what you will learn in this book.Key #1 -- The Secrets of the Hair
- The Hairdresser who may not be very experienced but has a pretty good idea about the basics of how haircolor works,
Key #2 -- Secret of the Products
- The Secrets of Texture
- Understanding Texture
- Understanding Porosity
- The Natural Level
- Understanding Natural Pigment
- Understanding the Decolorization of Natural Pigment
- Contributing Color Pigment Chart
Key #3 -- The Secret of Formulation
- 4 Main Types of Haircolor
- Where Haircolor Lives
- Temporary Haircolor
- Semi-Permanent Haircolor
- Permanent Haircolor
Key #4 - Secrets of Application & Timing
- The 2 Variables of Timing and Developer Strength
- Understanding Levels and Tones
- 2 Different Tonal Systems
- Color Identification
- Understanding Developers
- When to Use Which Developer
- Secrets of the Color Wheel
- It All Starts With the Consultation
- Mary's Makeover
- Valerie's Makeover
- Ann's Makeover
In this book, you will discover trade secrets that I have garnished from my years working behind the scenes with two different haircolor manufacturing companies and how these secrets apply to your everyday work.
I guarantee that you will learn information in this book that you will never be able to learn at any manufacturer-sponsored haircolor workshop or hair show anywhere.
You see, I think it’s a crying shame how some of the haircolor manufacturers have made haircolor product terminology so confusing that most hairdressers don’t even know the real difference between a semi-permanent and a demi-permanent color.
The marketing departments of many of these companies keep coming up with crazy names and terminology in order so that we hairdressers think their products or technology is different than their competition.Well guess what?For the most part, it’s not.
Sure, some manufacturers have brighter reds or cooler blondes, but the main development of the color itself is pretty much the same from one company to the next.
Anyway, once you read and internalize this information,
you will have learned more about the products you use and when to use each one to gain optimal results for each and every haircolor situation.No More Confusion, No More Guessing
In this book I’ll give you the real deal. We’ll cut through all of the confusion and get right to the important information that you need to know in order to make your work stand out from your competitors and make you stand out as a very knowledgeable “Haircolor Expert” and, after all, isn’t that the goal.
Here are just a few of the things you will learn this book.WHAT YOU WILL LEARN IN THIS BOOK
• Types of Products Used by the Professional Haircolorist…pg.6
• Secrets of Temporary Haircolor…pg.7
• Semi-Permanent Haircolor vs. Demi-Permanent Haircolor…pg.10
• Secrets of Semi-Permanent Haircolor…pg.12
• Secrets of Demi-Permanent Haircolor…pg.15
• Brief History of Demi-Permanent Haircolor…pg.17
• Modern Demi Colors…pg.18
• My Top 10 List for using Demi Color…pg.19
• Secrets of Understanding Progressive Tints…pg.24
• Secrets of Permanent Haircolor…pg.32
• Secrets of Advance Haircolor Formulation…pg.35
• Secrets of Why Using the Exposed Contributing Pigment Chart Doesn’t Work…pg.14
• Texture Bars Explained…pg.42
• Secrets of How to use the Exposed Contributing Pigment Chart for Tint-Backs…pg.48
• Secrets of Porosity…pg.53
• Secrets of Understanding Color Tones & Bases…pg.55
• Secrets of Natural or Neutral Base Colors…pg.56
• Secrets of Red Color Bases…pg.59
• Secrets of Ash Base Colors…pg.61
• Secrets of Gold Base Colors…pg.65
• Secrets of High-Lift Super Blonde Haircolor…pg.67
• Secrets of Toners…pg.69
• Secrets of Lighteners (Bleaches): Powder and Oils…pg.72
• Secrets of Color Removers…pg.76
• Secrets of Henna & Polymer Colors…pg.81
• Secrets of Developers…pg.85
The second book in the course is called Great Gray Coverage.
Now, you may be wondering why I wrote a book devoted entirely to the art of covering gray hair.
Well, the answer is for two reasons.Reason # 1:
Because every time I hold one of my color correction seminars, I always get bombarded with questions from hairdressers having problems with Gray Coverage issues.Reason # 2
Learning to color correctly over gray hair is a must in today’s world - more important today than ever before.
Unless you’ve been living under a rock, I’m sure you have heard about the “Graying of America”. Yes, I am talking about baby boomers, the largest segment of the population of the world since the beginning of time.
Experts say that there is an estimated 75,000, 000 baby boomers coming of age right now in the USA alone. Every minute over 300 people turn 50 in North America…and that trend will continue until the year 2018… (WOW! what a future we have as haircolorists!)
Not only that, but also this group of people are determined to stay looking younger and healthier as they age, more so than any other generation before them. And here’s the best part…
They can afford to do so.So what does that mean to us as Haircolorists?
Do I have to hit you over the head with a tint brush before you can read the writing on the wall?
As a Haircolor Specialist, you will be putting yourself in a prime position to make a very good living from this tremendous opportunity.
Now, if you are reading this and you are either in beauty school or recently graduated and licensed, you may be saying to yourself, I don’t want to be working on old people. I just want to work on people my age.
Well, allow me put in a little dose of reality into your life and career.
If you are really serious about becoming a Haircolor Expert and want to build a large following, you will have no choice but to work on people of all ages, and the better you get at coloring hair, the more popular you will become. The more popular you become, the more in demand you will be. When you are in great demand because you’re so good at what you do, your prices will increase. The more your prices increase, the less college kids can afford you; however, the more the over-50 bunch will gladly pay for your expert services.
So don’t cut off your nose to spite your face; just realize that you’re going to be in a great position to have a wonderful career that will start the day you learn how to master the Art of Great Gray Coverage. So here’s a sampling of what you will learn in this book….WHAT YOU WILL LEARN IN THIS BOOK
FORMULATION SECRETS FOR WORKING ON 75% TO 100%
MAKING GRAY (NON-PIGMENTED) HAIR BLONDE (LEVELS 6-9)
GRAY (NON-PIGMENTED) HAIR.
• Making Gray (non-pigmented) Hair Golden Blonde…pg.26
• Making Gray (non-pigmented) Hair Ash Blonde…pg.27
• Making Gray (non-pigmented) Hair Neutral Blonde…pg.28
• Making Gray (non-pigmented) Hair Red Blonde…pg.29MAKING GRAY (NON-PIGMENTED) HAIR DOUBLE PROCESS BLONDEMAKING GRAY (NON-PIGMENTED) HAIR BROWN (LEVELS 1-5)
• Making Gray (non-pigmented) Hair Golden Brown…pg.33
• Making Gray (non-pigmented) Hair Ash Brown…pg.34
• Making Gray (non-pigmented) Hair Reddish-Brown…pg.37MAKING GRAY (NON-PIGMENTED) HAIR RED
• Making Gray (non-pigmented) Hair Light Red (Levels 7, 8, 9) …pg.42
• Making Gray (non-pigmented) Hair Medium Red (Levels 4, 5, 6) …pg.45
• Making Gray (non-pigmented) Hair Dark Red (Levels 3, 4, 5) …pg.49PARTIAL COVERAGE TECHNIQUES
• Gray (non-pigmented) Reduction-Low Lights…pg.51
• Gray (non-pigmented) Blending-Demi Color…pg.52
• Blonde on Gray (non-pigmented)-Foil Blonde…pg.55GRAY COVERAGE COLOR CORRECTIVE PROCEDURES
• Keeping White Hair White…pg.57
• Always Use Neutral Base Colors as art of your Formula…pg.59
• Strategies for Covering Resistant Gray (non-pigmented) Hair…pg.61
Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned colorist, I think we can all
agree on one thing…redheads can be one of the most challenging colors of
all to master.
I mean, after all, there are gold-based Reds –
orange-based Reds – blue-based Reds – violet-based Reds – purple-based
Reds – brown-based Reds – red red-based Reds, Just think about it, you
can have a red in just about any color-base imaginable except for green
of course (because that would make brown ☺).
So, when you
figure all of the possible red haircolor combinations together with all
of the possible natural haircolor combinations, there are an endless
array of possible reds to choose from…
Or Do You?
You see there may be a lot of red colors to choose from, but when you
start figuring in eye color and skin tone, you quickly realize there’s
more to doing a great redhead than taking a color off the shelf and
slapping it on the head.
In this book, Amazing Redheads, you will learn all about what I call the “The Red Region”.
This is an area of the ”Contributing Color Pigment Chart” that once
understood, will clear up a lot of the mystery around how to do
fantastic looking redheads that not only look amazing the day they leave
the salon, but keep looking amazing throughout the lifetime of the tint
cycle (touchup to touchup).
You see there are some “Tricks of
the Trade” that true Haircolor Specialists use to insure that the
Redheads they produce stay looking great day after day, week after week,
with the minimum of fading and superior shine. I call this “Stacking the Deck On Your Side”.
With this method, you will able to identify, in advance, who will be
your best candidate for a rich full-bodied redhead and with whom you
will need to take special precautions.
Once you learned this “Trade Secret”,
you will have discovered one of the
Keys to becoming a Redhead Master.
once you become a Redhead Master, you will be well on your way to
becoming the recognized authority of haircolor in your hometown and
community.It’s just like anything else; they’re too lazy.
Why do I say this?
Because, believe it or
not, there are so few hairdressers (colorists) that can do great
redheads, the few that can become recognized as “Highly Talented
You may be asking yourself:
“Well, why don’t more hairdressers learned to do great redheads then?”
The answer is simple....They don’t want to study.
Pardon my bluntness, but it’s true. If they can’t just take a tube or
bottle of color off the shelf and mix it with developer and slap it on,
they’re not interested in it.
The whole concept of learning
about haircolor bases and how to mix, blend and creatively apply color
is way beyond their comfort zone.
They would rather spend
their time watching re-runs of “Desperate Housewives” then studying how
to become a Haircolor Expert.
Why do you think haircolor manufacturers give us so many red haircolors to choose from?
They know that, as a group, we don’t want to be bothered with learning
to mix or learning about color bases. Just give us the shade we want
and we’ll use it, straight out of the box.
Anyway, enough of my ranting, the important thing is that you are different.
How do I know you are different?.......Because you’re still reading this ☺.
If you were like the others, you would have stopped reading a long time ago.
I think my point has been well made…if you really want to become a Haircolor Expert, learning to create “Amazing Redheads” is a must and this book will insure that you will.
Here are a few of the lessons that you will learn in this book.
WHAT YOU WILL LEARN IN THIS BOOK
• Stack the Deck on Your Side…pg.18
• Best and Worst Candidates for Becoming a Redhead…pg.19
• Formulating Red Haircolor…pg.21
• Keeping Natural Redheads Red…pg.25
• Making Gray (Non-pigmented) Hair Red…pg.28
• Making Natural Blonde Hair Red…pg.30
• Making Brunette Hair Red (Levels 2-5) …pg.32
COLOR CORRECTIVE PROCEDURES FOR REDHEADS
#1 Red Color is too Vibrant at Regrowth Area…pg.35
#2 The Ends of Your Client’s Red Hair Looks Brown…pg.36
#3 The Client is Experiencing Early or Excessive Fading…pg.38
#4 Gray Hair Turns Pink or Mauve after applying a Red Tint. …pg.40
#5 How to Brighten Natural Redheads…pg.41
#6 How to Highlight Natural Red Heads-Highlights Keep Disappearing…pg.43
The next book I want to tell you about is called Exotic Brunettes.
You know, the general public thinks that making hair brown (brunette) is so easy that many of them have attempted to do it at home.
Their thinking is, “It’s just brown haircolor… how hard can it be?”
Well if you’re in the color correction business like I am, I’m sure you’ve fixed your fair share of these horribly botched up haircolor jobs such as,
• Brunettes that went jet black
• Brunettes that look red or orange
• Brunettes that looked like shoe polish
• Brunettes that look greenish
• Brunettes where the gray would not cover
Really, too many scenarios to mention them all…..
There’s a fine line between a beautiful full-bodied rich warm brunette and a red-orange one or a cool soft sandy brunette and a slightly greeny mattey brunette.
And that Fine Line is the Focus of this Book.
It’s all about learning to control unwanted warm tones while depositing a creamy delicate shade of coffee, sable or deep caramel.
In my mind, the true test of a great brunette isn’t as much about how she looks the day she leaves the salon (although that is important) as what her haircolor looks like four to six weeks later when she comes back in for her touchup. Is it Still Brown or is it Red?
And what about your male brunette clients?
It’s always been my experience that if you make a female client brunette and after a few weeks if it looks a little warm, she may not like it too much, but usually she won’t freak out.
But now imagine that uptight male executive (a double type A personality) that has salt-and-pepper hair and comes to you saying that he wants very natural looking brown haircolor just like he had in his college days.
So you apply your brown shade and, hopefully, he likes the results, but now fast forward four weeks later and his brown hair is red.
Believe me, he is not going to be quite as understanding about the situation as his female counterpart.
And don’t get me started about how ash base colors are supposed to cancel out any unwanted warm tones. If you still believe that, you really do need this book.
It all starts with understanding who are your best candidates for warm brunettes and who are your best candidates for cool brunettes, and which is the best product to use for each occasion.
You see, having a deeper understanding of the ”limitations of a tint” and being able to predict what will happen when a tint is applied to the hair is of paramount importance.
Also, knowing how to work with the hair’s texture, as well as the client’s skin tone and eye color is as essential to the success of a great brunette as it is to blonde or red.WHAT YOU WILL LEARN IN THIS BOOK
• Keeping a Natural Brunette, Brunette…pg.22
• Making Salt & Pepper Hair Rich Brunette…pg.23
• Making 75-100% Non-pigmented/White Hair Brunette…pg.
• Making a Natural Blonde a Brunette…pg.26
• Making a Natural Redhead a Brunette…pg.27
• Making a Double-Process Blonde a Brunette…pg.28
• How to do Tint Backs…pg.29COLOR CORRECTIVE PROCEDURES FOR BRUNETTES
#1 Dark Brown Tint Went Black…pg.33
#2 Brown Shade Looks Reddish…pg.37
#3 Brown Tint Went to Dark on the Ends Only…pg.39
#4 Brown Tint Took too Dark in the Temples…pg.42
#5 Brown Tint Looks Reddish in the Re-growth Area Only…pg.43
#6 Brown Shade Becomes Red After Just A Few Weeks…pg.45
How do you make a Successful Single Process Blonde?
Incredible Single Process Blondes
Well, first of all, let me define what I mean when I say “Successful”
single process blondes.
Because, believe me, I see plenty of unsuccessful single process blondes walking around in the shopping malls of America.
To me, a successful single process blonde is one that’s:
• Not brassy
• Even from roots to ends
• Does not have a greenish cast
• Is not overly porous
• Is shiny and soft to the touch
Of course, it can be a warm buttery golden blonde or a cool icy Nordic blonde. Remember, again, there is a fine line between warm-buttery and brassy as well as cool-Nordic-looking and gray.
So let’s start off by thinking about how many single process blondes you have as clients right now, assuming you are presently doing haircolor in a salon and not a complete novice or beauty school student.
What I mean is, of all the clients that you are presently giving a color service to, how many of them fall into the category of (successful) single process blondes?
I don’t mean highlighted, I don’t mean bleach and toned, I mean one color, regrowth to ends, using a single process blonde shade and not brassy or any of the other problem situations I mentioned earlier.
My guess would be not many.
Why is that?
Well, unless you live in the Nordic countries or in the State of Minnesota where many people of Nordic heritage live, you will be very limited as to whom you can make a successful single process blonde.If you don’t believe me, just take a quick
(Q) Can you make a level 1 black into successful single process blonde?
(A) Of course not.#2
(Q) Can you make a level 2 dark brown into a successful single process blonde?
(Q) And can you make a person with a natural level 3, 4 or 5 into successful single process blonde?
(A) No again.#4
(Q) Would you make someone a single process blonde if he/she were a natural level 9 or 10?
(A) Probably not because he/she is blonde already.#5
(Q) What about the client with salt-and-pepper hair that wants to be blonde?
(A) The salt may look good, but the pepper will look horrible.OK then, who’s left?Well that’s the subject of this book.
In Incredible Single Process Blondes,
you will learn everything you need to know about making “Successful Single Process Blondes” and how to make gray hair blonde, as well as what to do with these clients who are really too dark to be a successful single process blonde, but really want to be blonde.
Also, in this book, you will learn all about blonde bases and why blondes can look too drab, too green or just too flat.
Anyway, below you’ll see a list of the topics covered in this book.
The main thought that I want to leave with you is this:
It is absolutely essential that you learn how to do incredible blondes because (this is not official, just my opinion) over 50% of all haircolor done in the salon today is in the blonde family.Why?
Because, first of all, most people look better with lighter hair then with darker hair, especially as they age. And blonde hair is thought of as the sexy haircolor.
Below you’ll see what you will learn in this book. With this information, you will gain the knowledge needed to confidently achieve successful single process blondes every time.WHAT YOU WILL LEARN THIS BOOK
• Secrets of Single Process Blondes…pg.17
• Who are the Best and Worst Candidates for Single Process Blonding…pg.19
• Blonde Bases and How They Work…pg.22
• Natural/Neutral Base Blondes…pg.22
• Ash Base Blondes…pg.24
• Gold Base Blondes…pg.25
• Red Base Blondes…pg.26
• Drabbers, Modifiers and Intensifiers…pg.28
• High-lift Special Blondes…pg.30Color Corrective Procedures
#1 Ash Blonde Looks Drab on Gray (non-pigmented) Hair…pg.32
#2 Blonde Haircolor Did Not Cover Gray (non-pigmented) Hair…pg.35
#3 Blonde Looks Brassy / Too Warm…pg.37
#4 Blonde Hair Looks Green…pg.40
#5 When Making Salt & Pepper Hair Blonde, Gray (non-pigmented) Hair Looks Good, But the Darker Hair Now Looks Red…pg.42
#6 How to Use Single Process Blonde on Dark Hair…pg.46
Stunning Double Process Blondes
OK, I’ll be the first to admit that learning to do “Stunning Double Process Blondes”
may not be very high on your list of priorities because it is not a service that’s high in demand in our salons today.
Out of your entire clientele, how many double process blondes to you have?
Chances are the answer is none or very few.
However, again those that can create beautiful double process blondes will quickly gained a reputation for being a highly trained professional in our industry.
Double process blonding really had its heyday during the 1960s when many female sex symbols wore these high fashion colors, such as champagne blondes, ice blondes, arctic blondes and, of course, platinum blonde.
Today, every once in a while, some pop singer like Madonna will have her hair double process blonde for a while, but not for long.
Most double process blondes today are associated as being “Avant Garde” types and definitely not mainstream.
But does all this means that you should not worry about becoming an expert at double process blonding?No!
Because those who can do great double process blondes will rise to the top of the heap when put to the test.
I am not proud to admit it, but I worked in this industry for years without ever even doing a double process blonde.
It’s a matter of fact, I personally know of colorists that consider themselves “Haircolor Specialists” and work in very prestigious salons and yet will refused to do a double process blonde.Why do they Refuse?
For the same reason anyone would refused to do any service.They don’t know how,
or they don’t feel confident in their skills and abilities to do one.
You see, part of the problem is even if you want to learn how to do great double process blondes, where do you go.
• Beauty schools don’t teach it (how many double process blondes did you do a beauty school?)
• You rarely see them demonstrated at hair shows.
• Haircolor manufactures don’t have classes on how to do great double process blondes of which I am aware.
Why, because it’s not a moneymaker for them. Most haircolor manufactures have either greatly cut back on their manufacturing of real peroxide toners or have quit making them altogether.
When I decided that I really wanted to learn how to do double process blondes, I tried to seek out haircolorists that were doing them back in the 1960s like Leslie Blanchard, John and Lisa Günter and, of course, my dear friend Dee Levin in Philadelphia. These people did it every day all day long and that’s how you really learn something.
One of the main reasons that I think it’s so crucial that all colorist learn how to do great double process blondes today is because it’s one of the few services we do as colorist that, if done correctly, looks amazing but if done incorrectly can completely destroy someone’s hair!
Let me share a little story with you about an example
that I experienced firsthand.
Soon after I started working at Bumble and Bumble, a young lady came to me to get her haircolor fixed.
She was as cute as can be and had an amazing body, but her hair was in terrible shape.
She lived in Brooklyn and said she was a model and an actress (later I found out she was a model want-to-be and a porn queen, but that’s another story).
Anyway, some hairdresser in Brooklyn had been giving her terrible double process applications. She had gold bands galore, white areas in the midshaft, some breakage throughout and greenish ends.
Over the years, we made her color look amazing. She was able (for the first time in years) to grow it out to about shoulder-blade length, and it was shiny, healthy and the color was consistent from regrowth to ends.
When she had it blow-dried in the salon,
her hair looked like a sheet of white glass...
It was Gorgeous.
Then one day she came in and told me that she would be in L.A. for a few months shooting a film (I didn’t ask, I didn’t want to know) and could I give her the name of a colorist out there that she could go to while she was filming.
I said sure and gave her the name of a friend of mine in L.A. and she was off.Fast-Forward Four Months Later…...
One day she walks back into the salon with her hair in the worst shape ever.
As it turned out, she was not actually in L.A. but in some nearby area, so she never called my friend and, instead, went to some local hair salon near where she was filming and they proceeded to completely destroy her hair.
I’ll never forget that day at Bumble when she walked up to my chair with tears in her eyes and her voice quivering.
Her once beautiful hair looked like someone had
Attacked her with a pair of Clippers.
She had severe breakage throughout her entire head. She looked like she had been taking chemotherapy treatments.
What was left on her head was dry and brittle with white and yellow spots all over. It was absolutely horrible.
In the end, I convinced her to get a short haircut and keep it that way until we were able to nurse her hair back into shape.
Please, do yourself a favor and learn to do Stunning Double Process Blondes. Here’s what this book will teach you.WHAT YOU WILL LEARN IN THIS BOOK
• How Haircolor “Use To Be”…pg.18
• The Consultation…pg.20
• The Products…pg.21
• The Hair…pg.22
• The Bleach-Out…pg.23
• Doing a Virgin Bleach-Out…pg.24
• Doing a Bleach-Out on Tinted Hair…pg.26
• Doing a Bleach-Out on Previously Highlighted (Bleached) Hair…pg.27
• The Toner…pg.29
• Hint and Tips For Better Double Process Blonding…pg.31Color Corrective Procedures
#1 Blonde Looks Drab or Gray…pg.35
#2 Hair has a White Band about 1 inch from the Scalp…pg.36
#3 Hair has a Gold Band about 1 inch from the Scalp…pg.38
#4 In a Retouch Situation the Regrowth Area is warmer than the Rest of the Hair…pg.40
#5 The Bleach-out is Very Spotty and Uneven…pg.43
#6 The Hairline and or Temples Look Dark and Drab after Toning. …pg.45
#7 After Toning, the Hair is discolored i.e.: Green, Violet, Pink etc. …pg.47
#8 Client is Experiencing Breakage…pg.49
Now please understand, this is not just a series of haircolor books like Harry Potter that you just read once and never look at again. No! No! No!
Think about this set of modules (books) like a mini set of Haircolor Encyclopedias.
These are reference books that you will refer to over and over again throughout your haircolor career. After you read and study this information, you may want to keep the books at the salon so that if you get stuck on a certain haircolor correction procedure, all you will have to do is look it up in the appropriate book and follow the step-by-step instructions. (Do this in the dispensary, of course, not in front of the client) ☺